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MARC WEISS PRODUCTS - FAQS
Who is Marc Weiss?
Marc Weiss, an aquatic biologist, is president of Marc Weiss
Companies Inc. , Ft. Lauderdale Florida USA. Marc develops, manufactures
and markets biological water conditioners, medications and additives
for freshwater and marine aquariums, aquaculture and agriculture.
He also markets discus fish, both captive bred and wild caught
, as well as marine life. Marc spends much time each year finding
unique and exceptional discus in the Amazon. In the course of
studying, catching and breeding discus, Marc has introduced several
unique discus specific products as well as new forms of discus
to the hobby. His marine endeavors address organisms of both
ornamental and pharmaceutical value and the techniques to culture
and market them. He has developed unique products and protocols
to cultivate invertebrate marine life that has not survived in
captivity before. Marc has had success breeding species of marine
fish that have previously proved difficult or impossible. He
has lectured on discus and marine aquaria in both the USA and
abroad. He has been published in several languages, in both hobbyist
and technical journals. Marc was one of the founders of the Discus
Study Group in the USA and edited its publication, "DISCUSsions" for
several years. During this time he also authored the monthly
column "Salt Solutions" for Tropical Fish Hobbyist
Magazine.
Marc was born in New York City, in 1948; where there "were
always fish tanks in the house." His family moved near the
sea when he was nine and marine life was soon added to his collection
of freshwater fishes, turtles and plants. An avid diver and explorer,
he often travels far from his present Ft. Lauderdale, Florida
USA home. His aquaculture training was in Asia, where he frequently
returns to lecture and consult. His first journey to the Amazon
basin in 1974 opened his eyes to the biochemical interrelationships
of the rain forest and reef environments and formed the basis
of his work since then.
How are your products different?
We are unique and original in our products and processes. We have
no "me too" items in our line. When we appear to, we
urge you to take a closer look. There are significant differences.
We depend on, and exploit, natural biological processes; we take
the organic approach. Organic compounds are what living things
recognize in nature and are quickly and totally usable by them.
In the case of our additives, we avoid the commonly used non-catalytic
inorganic chemical salts. For example, potassium iodide or strontium
chloride are frequently added to aquaria . Neither are immediately
bio-available to reef critters; and what occurs to the unusable
potassium and chloride? We find many aquariums unbalanced and overdosed
due to use of chemicals that do only part of the job. These chemicals
are not used up by the aquarium flora and fauna and are left to
interfere; not enhance. We provide the catalysts to move the compounds
into living cells and make the resulting by-product a natural part
of the carbon, sulfur, nitrogen, and Krebs cycle as it should progress.
Our non-additive products again, are original and unique in purpose
and/or design. You should also find our focused booklets and books
a bit different than what you are used to seeing. They are to the
point and most importantly, immediately useful to the aquarist.
The main thrust of our philosophy is that a balanced, healthy aquarium
begins with a balanced, healthy microbial population. These are
not novel ideas; our planet was created that way!
What is a catalyst?
A catalyst is a substance that initiates, or speeds up a chemical
reaction or process. Water itself is can be a catalyst for example.
What is a biocatalyst? What is an enzyme? Aren't
they the same?
A biocatalyst is a complex protein (organic compound), produced
by living cells, that initiates specific biochemical reactions.
Catalysts work via chemical actions; enzymes work via biological
and chemical actions. Enzymes can be said to contain a "vital
energy" or life force, which inorganic chemical catalysts
do not. An enzyme supplied to an organism frees up energy to use
for growth, reproduction, and to improve immune responsiveness.
Enzymes can be said to be the key that starts a car, while biocatalysts
are the fuel to keep it moving.
I thought catalysts aren't used up?
Biocatalyst, once "launched" can degrade for many reasons.
Living cells absorb them and then the cell reproduces, needing
more. For example a biocatalyst is "used up" by your
growing coral or Amazon sword plant.
Why should I add these biocatalysts to my aquarium?
These compounds minimize disease, enhance growth and help cycle
and balance a captive system. A balanced system has less nuisance
algae which is certainly one highly desirable side effect. Your
aquarium is missing the sources of many of these valuable compounds.
One organisms waste is anothers life-blood. Hydrothermal vents,
deep ocean trenches, wetlands, mud flats are examples of enzyme
producing biotopes. Indeed, the hydrological cycle of rain leaching
land masses and depositing the biological by-products of the planet
into its waters cannot be duplicated by aquarium technology in
and of itself.
So what do your "biocatalyst" products
really contain?
They contain the products and by-products of living cells. Proteins,
polysaccharides, vitamin and pigment precursors ("building
blocks"). There is a specific and carefully structured mineral
package in proper form and ratio to drive the desired actions forward.
They are recognized by the US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA)
as working by catalytic action under regulation guidelines. Please
remember! What's in the bottle is not really what you get! What's
in the bottle initiates and gives life to what you will get! The
products are designed to commence and synchronize the cycles that
occur in reefs in nature. The product doesn't immediately recognize
what position each of the cycles are in when added, and needs a
little time to recognize them.
Do these biocatalyst products really work?
Like aspirin for our own aches and pains, they work most of the
time for most people for most of the reasons they are used. Aquariums
are complex entities. They cannot possibly be miniature duplications
of nature when they are set up and maintained using widely parroted
industry dogma coupled with sometimes misguided and differing opinions.
There are companies scurrying to convince the public the value
of dumping useless, counterproductive substances into aquariums
and using gadgets that poorly mimic a function that nature would
be happy to provide for free in a balanced system. The fortunes
of these companies are often based on the paradoxical theory that
if you add this, it takes out that! Currently, aquaria have become
killing fields for algae. Algae is natural. Algae filters this
planet and anything that kills it, kills something useful in your
aquarium. However, balancing the undesirable with the desirable
and keeping it under control is our philosophy of the "New
Wave" of aquarium keeping.
Why haven't others come out with similar products?
Many have tried and failed. Many would go out of business if the
truth about trace elements (freshwater and saltwater) were known.
Some of our products eliminate the need for more expensive, more
complex products that other manufacturers want to push. As time
goes on, this web site will explore some of these issues. How many
manufacturers offer iodine and suggest you use their dechlorinator?
Dechlorinators neutralize iodine and make it unavailable to organisms-sometimes
temporarily. Thus you might add more iodine and then get a wipe
out due to iodine toxicity when it comes back into solution. Other
products inhibit or retard the cycling process, such as dechloriminators
containing sulfites, formaldehyde complexes (called other things
on the label!) etc.
Your enzyme products smell funny.
How do I know if it has gone bad?
What are the clumps and stringy matter in the product?
People perceive odors in dramatically different ways. Some say
our enzyme products smell like vinegar, apple juice, rotten Swiss
cheese and/or their high-school gym socks! Indeed some have tried
these things (well maybe not the gym socks!) without equal results!
To each individual these perceptions are true smells, but the products
contain none of these items. If the product is contaminated it
can begin to cycle those contaminants in the bottle; but it won't
be spoiled. Likewise, it can take the oxygen and/or nitrogen in
the airspace above the product in the bottle, consume it and pinch
in the bottle...or can swell it-it still is good. The product will
never smell good (to most people), but when it is truly spoiled
the odor will be overwhelming! However, the mid-cycle by-products
are not necessarily harmful. The product is generally younger than
two months old when you get it; distributors are usually replenished
biweekly or monthly and they generally stock the shops they sell
to weekly in general. It can last unopened for at least two years.
We suggest refrigeration after the bottles are opened to avoid
expansion or contraction of the bottle due to a chance of contamination
by airborne microbes. Refrigerated, the shelf life is indefinite.
We have some for over five years now with no decrease in activity.
If it is accidentally frozen, allow the bottle to come up to room
temperature and it will be as good as new. Dont put the bottle
in hot water and definitely not in the microwave; it will be de-activated!
As it is a biological product, it is not sterilized. Microbes can
and do grow in it. Unlike your aquarium there is no substrate so
they cling to each other and to the walls of the bottle and get
shaken loose with handling. In your aquarium they would disperse.
THESE CLUMPS AND "STRINGS" ARE THE "BEST" PART
OF THE STUFF! They will dissolve out in the aquarium if the fish
and inverts dont eat it first! These microbes and their by-products
are beneficial! The latest buzz-word for such substances is prebiotic.
So why didn't some aquarium products work for me?
There are perhaps a jillion reasons for why products don't work
in a particular situation. Our research has demonstrated our tap
water is worse than even the RO manufacturers would have you believe.
Zinc, lead and aluminum are examples of dangerous elements the
aquarium hobbyist doesnt even test for that are commonly in tap
water foiling your attempts at being a reef hobbyist. Some aquarium
additives... where you add something to take out something else
(?!?) can retard or prevent cycling. Indeed, even the preservatives
in fish food have been demonstrated that they can kill the desirable
bacteria we all strive to grow in our filters, live rock and substrate.
Likewise the chemical war against algae doesnt help the effectiveness
of my products nor does it help aquariums prosper. Often some simple
aeration will remedy nuisance algae and cycling problems. Oxygen
is needed to move nitrogen compounds from harmful to harmless and
then disperse them. When we had air stones instead of power heads
such problems were not as common! Its all about balance; this planet
is filtered by algae, your prize corals cell contain it; biological
filtration depends on it and similar organisms as well-scientists
continue to argue what is a bacterium and what is an alga! Cultivate
it properly in a balanced manner! Nuisance algae is the sign of
an unbalanced aquarium, and misapplication of products. Even God
said it took six days to create the reefs; you arent going to do
it by the end of the week! Algae provide so many of the enzymes
that an aquarium needs. Perhaps the success of my products is that
the hobbyist kills the good stuff? This brings us to "The
Myth of the Nutrient Poor Reef". Many aquarium are simply
too starved of nutrients to succeed. "Phosphate block" is
one problem we see; no phosphates, no biological filtration, no
life. Well get into nitrates and silicates down the road. Again,
aeration works wonders here as well. Instead of the latest aquarium
product hype; check out some marine biology and mariculture texts!
This web site will enlighten you on the "latest" research
(as old as the beginning of time!) as this site grows and direct
you towards a more intelligent and natural approach with a track
record of success and economy of time and money.
Why does the color vary in some of your products?
Why is a given product a different color
sometimes?
The product is made to an activity standard, not to a color standard,
using natural ingredients. Depending on source and season, plant
derived products can vary in color; and sometimes even smell.
How can one product make so many claims?
Easily and truthfully. Lets take "Coral Vital" as an
example. It endeavors to to keep the multiple cycles of, carbon,
sulfur, phosphorous, nitrogen in a balanced continuous pattern
by charging the water molecule in a particular manner. It provides
usually deficient enzymes to initiate it and keep it all moving
despite the well-intentioned errors by the aquarist. The result
is chemically balanced water, a healthy microbial population and
efficient utilization of wastes and light energy. These claims
can be traced to this. We can even look at the claim that it helps
fishes repel ick. Immune compounds in fish skin is primarily made
of beta glucans, invert sugars or polysaccharides. Some of them
actually cause disease organism cysts to "open up", while
others are antibiotic. Not only does Coral Vital provide some of
these, it also provokes their continuous production by microbes
in a natural aquarium by providing, among other things, a charged
carbon source. You may be surprised to know that these glucans
are some of the same compounds that make up the growth hormones
that photosynthetic corals are using all that light to make! Every
living cell on this planet is making sugars. Thus the corals profit
and grow faster while fish immunity is being enhanced. Again, its
about balance and those spinning cycles!
Our ImmunoVital products depend on concentrates of the substances
mentioned above to do their job as well.
Why do the bottles containing the liquid products
pinch in or swell up?
Is it still good?
Our products rely on natural, organic ingredients. They would be
denatured (made ineffective) by sterilization. Microbes from the
air or in the product themselves, "cycle" in the bottle.
Depending on the microbes and the phase the product is in, the
oxygen and nitrogen in the air at the neck of the bottle can initiate
and keep this cycling going.
The liquid products when contaminated really, really smell awful!
Actually, they are still good as microbes will cycle the contaminant
eventually. So, if the stuff is just kind of sweetish, cheesy,
smelling dont worry how the bottle looks. If you can hold your
nose there, all is OK. After opening, cap tightly and refrigerate
it for literally unlimited shelf life. If your are unsure, uncomfortable,
or whatever, well be happy to replace the product to your dealer
for you, rather than have you worry or have you gag bringing it
back to normal by aerating it.
Why does light appear more intense when your liquid
products are added?
Light interaction with the water molecule is essential to transfer
energy. The "Vitals" turn the bulk water into a liquid
crystal aligning the water molecules to transfer light more bio-effectively.
This is easily demonstrated by the fact that aquatic plants and
photosynthetic organisms will grow as fast or faster in less light
when our products are used. We call this our proprietary Optically
Active Conductive Polymer© (OACP©) technology.
Why is it sometimes when I open a bottle of your
liquids there is a spark, and I feel a small electric "shock"?
From the beginning our products (liquids and powders) have been
designed to have a polar attraction to living cells; in most cases
ones fingers qualify!
I thought corals etc. are supposed to open up
when I use your products; some critters close!
People (not God and Nature necessarily) equate beauty with health
or something good. The fact is once reef critters have their fill
of nutrients and enzymes they often close up and process them,
avoiding exposure to more. Simply put, a Tridacna clam extends
its beautiful mantle to take in light and make glucose in the photosynthetic
cells. When it has made enough for the moment to grow, reproduce
and keep itself healthy......it withdraws that mantle. It does
not really want it exposed to its enemies as it must when making
food. Similarly an anemone or coral will withdraw its polyps when
it has enough food. So which is "happier"? For example,
many hobbyists enjoy raising and propagating sea mushrooms. Do
you know when sea mushrooms reproduce they close up? Look closely
at their substrate; you may find my BlackPowder closed them up
for awhile but you can count more of them when they open up looking
for more BlackPowder! The commercial propagator really doesnt care
if they are closed most of the time as more mushrooms are being
produced. Balance between use of my products and your desired results
are well worth spending your time gaining some experience with
them.
Do your products contain vinegar as one of your
competitors claim?
Nope! Some do contain other organic acids that smell like vinegar
to some people. As acetates, etc. are produced in the denitrification
cycle my products certainly (and must!) enable their production.
Vinegar (acetic acid) is being produced in a balanced aquarium
as it is in nature; we have no reason to add it. I also feel that
I don¹t have any competition at all. Others are selling diluted
chemicals from easily obtained formulas and copies of other products.
My products use natural ingredients or processes and are all original
in concept, design and execution.
Do they contain yeast?
Sort of.... Yeasts, water-molds, bacterial plaques, and organism
flocks of hard to define organisms blanket the sea, and indeed
our land masses as well. They are among the best sources of enzymes,
pre and pro biotics. Thats where reef critters get a lot of what
they need in nature! We certainly use extracts of them and in some
products altered cell structure of yeast-like organism plaques
that we culture. We do not use brewers or bakers yeast that are
in many products and widely used by professional aquaculturists.
Not that there is not a place for them. There is much in the scientific
literature to support the many attributes of yeasts and yeast-like
organisms in captive aquatic systems.
Why do your liquids sometimes affect test kits
for nitrogen compounds?
Im really sorry about this one. I know your test for ammonia reads
200 ppm when my product is added but everything is better than
when it read zero! This happens with tests for nitrogens only;
ammonia, ammonium, nitrate, nitrate. Our catalyst liquids can affect
every brand of test kit some of the time. It doesnt matter what
brand of kit; it matters what phase of change the nitrogen is in
because of reaction to the product.This is due off-gassing of nitrogen
gas (which you really, really want to happen) and to what our biochemist
calls "electron clouding". Apparently there is a "shadow" of
preexisting nitrogen left which the test kit picks up on. We suggest
you test for nitrogens prior to use of product. The conversion
equation on the bottle can be used to determine it as well. Nitrogens
are essentially moved into another ionic, non-toxic state by the
enzymes. Depending on bio-load test kits will usually return to
normal within a week. If not and you need an accurate reading,
suspend use of product and wait until the reading "crashes".
Please note: aquarium test kits are not generally accurate we find
when compared to more sophisticated methods-they do provide a guide.
Those interested in test kits can consult water chemistry test
texts for common interferences to accuracy; there are many in an
aquarium that can be found! We could easily add compounds that
will zero out a test kit. It makes for an ineffective product and
cheats the consumer in my opinion.
Sometimes I get confused which of your products
are best for my aquarium?
So do I! There are arguably over 90,000 potential reef aquarium
inhabitants! Including some which scientists argue if they are
even plant or animal. Many of these creatures overlap in their
requirements; many are faculative; switch hitters going from herbivore
to carnivore, photosynthetic or not as conditions change. My products
overlap in value to you as well. Ive tried to make advertising
and the labels clearer to help you chose. Our internet product
sheets have been tuned finer as well. Quite frankly, each time
we think we have made the best product for that sponge, or this
coral we find it eagerly consuming something we made for an entirely
different class of creature. Indeed many organisms consist of a
flock of symbionts with different preferences; hard corals are
a prime example. To me this is part of the fun and challenge of
this relatively new endeavor of growing reef critters. Your comments
are invited; Im learning too and not too proud to admit it! A product
is developed based on current thought and experience and what is
in the literature. It always isnt true as we find the creature
wanting the opposite condition, nutrient, catalyst even more than
the recommended protocol.
I used such and such a product and things got worse!
...I got algae!
Nature always compensates at least doubly for whatever we are trying
to do. My products enhance natural processes; nature is not working
on your time frame. People want instant gratification. The hobbyist
doesn't realize, for example, when commercial aquaculture systems
are established, things like phosphates and nitrates are intentionally
added in relatively large amounts. Aquariums are often out of cycle;
even when apparently cycled. Professionals allow time for the various
cycles to synchronize. When they do click, the system is close
to bullet proof. Most hobbyist panic at the first sight of algae;
there is an industry built on killing it. You wont take the time
to cycle and synchronize properly. Your hobby books have taught
you the nitrogen cycle, yes? How come in Marine Biology 101, Page
One, Paragraph One it says something like nitrification in the
sea is a function of cyanobacteria? (Hobbyists spend a lot of time
and money killing it!!). Algae live in the cells of your corals.
Anything that discourages them inhibits growth of what you are
trying to grow. Your object should be balance. Minimal nuisance
algae with desirable algae and organisms out-competing. This takes
time. This takes balance. THIS TAKES AERATION! Nitrification is
an oxidative process requiring a high redox potential. I have found
many if not most reef tanks at midnight are suffocating, on the
edge of disaster till the lights go on; saved by the bell so to
speak.
If a product causes some algae, increase aeration, its rarely adequate
in home aquariums, you could suspend use of a product until algae
contracts, then re-dose. Soon each dose will do its job more to
your liking. Professionals often force and push the algae growth
to maximum, until it burns itself out; now the cycle is really
dialed in. The technique is not suggested for the home hobbyist
without aquaculture training in my opinion.
Will activated carbon remove it? Resins? Pads?
In the case of Coral Vital, Reef Vital DNA, Coral Vital LSB these
products will remove some of the components, not all. Actually
most of the constituents of these products are utilized immediately,
so use of these products doesn¹t affect them too much. Ketapang
Vital would be substantially removed by carbon and some resins.
SpectraVital and Blackpowder contain particulate matter so mechanical
filtration, even a skimmer will remove excess that the organisms
don¹t use up in a few hours.
What about protein skimming?
A protein skimmer/foam fractionator cannot skim out Coral Vital
or LSB; thats how well it fits into the water molecule! In most
cases these products will not even cause additional foam; usually
less!
For Reef Vital DNA, Spectra Vital and Blackpowder, the skimmer
can remove the particulate components. it is usually not fast enough
to get it before your organisms do and I suggest you leave it on.
If you dose these products a couple of hours before the lights
go out; so both diurnal and nocturnal creatures are exposed to
it, one can tell by the skimmer if the dosing is correct. If there
is none in the skimmer cup in the AM, maybe you should use more
as this is indicative of your reef consuming all of it.
Effect of UV?
UV will not neutralize my products. UV is a valuable tool to control
disease processes and algae in aquariums - freshwater, marine or
reef. UV sterilizers kill microbes drifting through the water including
algae spores. Cycling an aquarium is a microbial process. UV can
retard or prevent cycling - and usually does. However once cycling
is complete UV is very beneficial in controlling disease and preventing
the spread of algae. UV would not be beneficial if one was breeding
some organism with very small planktonic larvae - it will kill
the minute larvae drifting though the water. Once the larvae have
settled in their place, the UV should be resumed.
How does use of your products decrease the necessity
for trace elements?
You are all hearing about "magic muds" and the "special" filters
that they need to be contained in. Basically these finely ground
minerals that because of their composition, density, impaction
etc. generate some enzymes that facilitate release of a small amount
of desirable compounds; all of which (and then some!) are contained
in our products in a far more concentrated form. Interestingly,
the mud-filter sellers claim to have an additives that they say
replaces their own mud device!
If you use a good substrate,
such as one of CaribSea's aragonites, then add my catalysts, you
just may have a lifetime supply of trace elements from that quality
substrate if the aquarium is lightly stocked. A good substrate
contains at least calcium, strontium, magnesium and iodine....and
more. You just may leach out enough not to need any additional.
Usually though, the hobbyist or breeder wants to get the most out
of their aquarium or systems.
At least some supplementation is then needed for the growing critters
within. Our Funky Old Reef Mud (F.O.R.M.) contains a rich natural
harmless blend of trace elements and provides traces just like
these sediments do in the sea. It is a good place to start before
resorting to chemicals. It can also be used in these special filters
but it is far easier to just sprinkle it in. Unlike chemical trace
elements which may be toxic or contain unusable compounds bound
to the usable one, F.O.R.M.will dissolve as needed.
What is the difference between your products marked
for Professional Use and those same products without the pro labeling?
The Coral Vital Pro or my other professional products are not
usually more concentrated. They are faster acting to accomodate
dealer¹s
needs to make heavily stocked systems acceptable to aquatic life
quickly. A surprising number of advanced hobbyists prefer it;
and our dealers make it available to them.
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